Of course, it is Carnaval time here and everywhere. In Perú, Carnaval can mean everything from parades and street dancing to water balloon fights and paint-or-flour-covered children. Think less beads, more balloons. However, it also means parties with chicha and multiple-course meals. Actually, multiple-course meals are the norm here. It’s also customary to always be offered food when you are invited into someone’s home. And when you are offered food, you’d better finish your plate.

When the parade ended, the mayor ushered us and about 40 of our neighbors into a house for lunch. (Keep in mind, we’d just finished lunch with our host mom.) I ate the beet salad and finished the bowl of high-five soup like a Peace Corps pro. Then our generous hostesses brought out the third, fourth and fifth courses. No big deal. I’ll just grab my…. rut roh. In the midst of my innocent interest in watching the parade and subsequent participation in said parade, I forgot my purse. More importantly, I forgot the safety bag inside my purse. Rookie mistake.

What is a safety bag, you ask? You see, during Pre-Service Training, I got sick. A lot. New food sick. Street-hamburger sick. Ceviche sick. Shoveling-cow-poop sick. 24-hour-ride-thru-the-Andes sick. Weaving-through-Lima-traffic sick. I’m sure you get the idea. Anyway, I learned to always carry an empty plastic bag. It made life less messy. After my first visit to Amazonas in November, I learned this magical plastic bag could also be used to “guardar” (save) food when it becomes physically impossible to finish your second (or third) lunch in a row. I’m such a fan of the safety bag that my superlative at the end of Pre-Service Training was “most likely to carry a safety bag.”

Today I made a grievous error. In the haze of Carnaval’s fireworks, I left my beloved safety bag at home. Fortunately, I was sitting next to the mayor’s wife and she gave me one. If not for her preparedness, Ian would have rolled me home.

So, do as I say and not as I do. Always, always carry a safety bag. You can thank me later.

“Do you have children, Mrs. Amanda?”

“No, not yet. Maybe someday. Mr. Ian and I have one dog, though. His name is Wilson.”

As I continue to write vocabulary on the chalkboard, I decide to add Wilson to my family tree. The children giggle, and then one says:

“Mrs. Amanda, it’s the same here in Perú. Dogs are part of our family, too.”

That kid is getting an A.

I like the way it rains here.

I like how the clouds drift along the mountainsides,

playing hide-and-seek among the peaks and ridgelines.

I like how mankind is wrapped around nature here,

and not the other way around –

how it remains the dominant force, acquiescing to our presence

rather than submitting to it.

I feel as though in a moment, we might be swept aside by nature,

washed away,

overwhelmed.

I like the way it rains here.

It is not the gray sullenness of its cousin Lima — it is a joyful rain

full of promise and life,

falling from clouds that dance gleefully in from unseen valleys

like guests invited to a friendly gathering –

some sweeping through, leaving a glow of glittering jewels –

some lingering, filling the air with sweetness,

filling the streams with laughter.

It is a rain that reminds you of its purpose:

to make the Earth sing;

to make the crops grow;

to make the rivers run and shape the land for miles and millenia beyond.

I like the way the rain cleanses the already clean air,

elevating saints from the beatified.

I like the way it rains here.

A Christmas Miracle

Our laptop detected an aggressive virus a few days before Christmas. Even though we tried to be extra careful, it must have gotten it from some USB or Internet cafe. (I’m lookin’ at you, bad-hot-chocolate place.) Fortunately we had back-ups for the super important files, but we were pretty sure we lost all of our December reports, presentations, and documents. Purchasing and getting a new computer was going to be a challenge.

Later that day, someone came over to our house to install Internet. It worked for a few hours, and then it when down again. The guy told us our computer crashed the Internet for the entire Luya network. He said he would have to return later with an engineer to configure everything. Several prodding phone calls and two days later, just in time for Christmas, Internet-guy returned with his engineer. They spent an entire Saturday working on our connection, and finally, it worked. It was a Christmas miracle. I never expected to have Internet, much less WiFi , during Peace Corps service. We don’t have regular running water, but we have WiFi. Sometimes, life is weird like that in the Peace Corps.

So, we were able to FaceTime our family to give them the good news. While we wouldn’t be physically with them on Christmas, we would still be able to see each other on Christmas day. As an added bonus, Ian’s mother is a computer genius. She walked us through how to fix our computer, and we saved it.

Christmas Eve

During Christmas Eve Day, Ian and I cleaned, cooked, and listened to Christmas music. We even had to run to the market for last minute ingredients, which was completely familiar. There wasn’t snow on the ground, football bowl games on TV, or a big shiny Christmas tree, but it still felt a lot like Christmas. That evening we went to Christmas Eve mass with our host mother. I found comfort in knowing my family and friends were doing the same thing in the US. After church we walked home together and sat down for dinner. Our host dad apologized for not having turkey. We ate chicken, figs and applesauce. Of course, these things were followed with hot chocolate and Panetón. As the church bells tolled midnight, Neli asked me to place Baby Jesus in the manager. I was honored.

Baby Jesus!

Shortly thereafter, she gave us a little nativity scene for our room. It even had a llama! Ian and I went to bed happy, but we wondered what it would be like to spend Christmas Day away from everything we’d always known.

Christmas Day

A few days beforehand, we asked our host family if we could cook for them on Christmas Day. We wanted to share our traditions with them, and food is a big part of that. They graciously agreed. Ian woke up early on Christmas morning and started making french toast and hot chocolate for our host family. Our host family asked for second servings and the recipe. We gave them their Christmas presents (Panetón and a homemade wreath) and talked about holiday traditions. It made my heart happy.

Neli, Meister and Ian are all smiles after french toast on Christmas morning.

After breakfast we went back to our room and spent the morning on FaceTime with all of our family members. It was such a blessing to be able to do that, and I truly believe that it made the day easier for all of us. There are current volunteers in Peru who had to ride two hours to access Internet. (I think they have running water, though.) By the time we finished talking to family, it was almost time for lunch. Since we didn’t have access to an oven, we weren’t able to make Ian’s traditional family lasagna. However, he did make an Italian sauce from scratch. We shared the sauce and pasta with our host family, and again they asked for seconds.

Stockings hung on the closet with care (?) and our little Christmas tree

That afternoon Ian and I exchanged gifts. Santa managed to find us in Peru, so our stockings were full of candy and there were little gifts under our little tree. Best of all – Santa got me a monogrammed machete. I cried when I opened it because it was hilariously perfect. Santa knows me too well. That evening, we decorated sugar cookies even though I couldn’t bake. We bought little cookies from a nearby bodega, found sprinkles, and made frosting. We called our friends currently serving throughout Peru. They all found their own ways to celebrate. My Spanish instructors texted and called me. Students from the local colegio texted to wish us a Merry Christmas. So, while our pequeñita Navidadita wasn’t quite the same, it still full of love and family. We found ways to incorporate traditions and family from home into our life here. And, that’s what Christmas is all about.

Sprinkles for everyone!

Two Weeks Later

“It’s a Wonderful Life” finally finished downloading last night. So, tonight we’re watching it and drinking hot chocolate. Merry Christmas, y’all.

All I Wanted

Ian and I were in our departmental capital, Chachapoyas, for a meeting, and we had a little extra time to use the Polleria / Mini-Market, a.k.a. the Internet cafe. I was thrilled because this place also had hot chocolate on the menu. I knew that drinking hot chocolate while downloading Christmas music and movies from iTunes would put me in the Christmas spirit. The Internet was high(ish) speed, and my favorite holiday songs were filling my library. Then, my hot chocolate arrived. I took a big gulp of the steamy goodness and promptly gagged. It tasted like foul, rotten cheese. I ordered a coffee and sulked while trying to download “It’s a Wonderful Life.”

Later that morning I walked across the street to a hardware store to pick up a Christmas tree and some lights. Decorating for the holidays usually helps prepare my heart for Christmas. I found a perfect little Christmas tree with ornaments and bright red Christmas lights. I negotiated for the items using my newly-acquired Spanish vocabulary. The lady behind the counter, in attempt to make conversation, commented on the size of my tree and, therefore, the size of my Christmas. Yes. I know. I’m going to have a pequeñita Navidadita. Thank you. I hope you have a nice day, too.

We returned to Luya shortly thereafter to find our host family preparing the Naciemiento, or Nativity Scene. Okay, Amanda. Baby Jesus is coming next week, whether you are ready or not. So, Ian and I helped our host cousins, aunt, uncle, and parents string Christmas lights and place plants around the nativity scene. (Actually, Ian strung the Christmas lights because he was the tallest person in the room. He’ll never escape that holiday role.) Then, we all sat down for a late dinner of potato pancakes and canned tuna. Much to my surprise, Meister, our host dad, then brought out hot chocolate and the fruitcake-meets-bread delicacy, Panetón. Hot chocolate. How did he know?  We all sat around the dinner table laughing and telling stories. It was the first time Ian and I truly felt like part of the family. Later that evening, Ian and I sat in our room listening to our new Christmas albums while decorating our pequeñita Christmas tree.

Chocolatadas y mas Panetón

Two days later Ian and I attended the Health Center’s Christmas party. We were invited to participate in their amigo secreto (secret Santa) gift exchange, so that evening we wrapped up little gifts and headed to the party. It was filled with food, toasts, and dancing. My amiga secreta gave me a bottle of perfume and Kuelap bag. Ian received a traditional Chacapoyas hat from his amigo secreto. He wears that hat all the time. (Side note – I never thought I’d use perfume in the Peace Corps, but when you don’t consistently have access to showers, it is helpful.) The Health Center’s Christmas party really made us feel like part of the staff, which we will be for the next two years. At the end of the night, Dr. Arturo passed out baskets full of food to all the employees. We received one, too. It was filled with pasta noodles, canned food, Panetón, and canned milk with a bar of chocolate to make my favorite holiday drink.  How did they know?

We had a busy next few days wrapping up details for our Vacaciones Útiles program as Christmas approached. Neli, our host mom, told me about an upcoming Christmas pageant at the church. She asked if we had any musical instruments and could help…. Fortunately, Santa’s elf heard the conversation, so Santa visited Ian a little early this year so that he could have his new cajón in time. Ian practiced with some of the kids beforehand, and then we all headed over to the plaza for a parade, pageant and Chocolatada.

First, in true Peruvian fashion, there was a parade. The kids marched and danced around the plaza to the tune of music from the local colegio (high school) band. Then, they entered the church for the pageant. The mayor greeted the families in attendance before the traditional Peruvian holiday tunes and dancing began. Ian’s group was the final act. He drummed along to those sweet voices as they sang “Ven A Cantar.” I still can’t get the tune out of my head.

The Christmas Parade in Luya

Ian and Luyanitos perform “Ven A Cantar” in the church.

After the pageant concluded, we walked over to the soccer field for a Chocolatada. Now, Chocolatadas might be my new favorite thing. Essentially, they are parties for children in the community where every kid gets a little gift, hot chocolate (!) and, you guessed it, Panetón. It is filled with dancing, and if you are lucky, maybe Scooby Doo or a Smurf. When Ian and I return in two years, you all are invited to our inaugural Chocolatada.

Luyanitos perform the traditional Marinera dance.

I see you, Scooby Doo.

Read Chocolatadas, Panetón and WiFi – Part Two here….

During our time here in Peru we’ll celebrate our fourth, as well. When I reflect on our marriage, as one tends to do on a day like today, I find myself inspired and encouraged by the fact that we’re here together, realizing our mutual dream. I think ahead to the future, and I see us continuing to live life strengthened by our union, confronting challenges hand in hand, and being there for each other when the road gets difficult.

I am blessed. I’ve found someone that shares my vision, both internally and in the context of the world around us. Together, we put that vision into action every day, living lives that are the greater than the sum of our individual parts. I truly believe that by working towards our Peace Corps goal together, we are building a solid foundation for the rest of our lives. And I couldn’t be happier than to build my life with Amanda.

Happy aniversario, sweetheart. I love you.

So, about November. In sum November kept a smile on my face and happy tears in my eyes. Here are a few of the highlights:

Who won?

November 6, 2012 – Ian and I left Lima (and access to CNN’s election-day coverage) for field-based training during the final chapter of our Pre-Service Training. (Unfortunately, we were sent to separate locations for the first half of this trip.) I fell asleep on the overnight bus to Cajamarca not knowing who our president would be. The next morning, we woke up in the capital surrounded by newspapers announcing Obama’s victory. People in Peru congratulated me. All politics aside – this was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It gave me goosebumps, and I kept a copy of the newspaper to show our (way-in-the-future) children and grandchildren.

November Wedding

November 10, 2012 – One of my dear friends got married. All I wanted was to Skype/FaceTime into the wedding day preparations or reception. I was occupied with giving a charla about heart health in the morning, and then that afternoon I was stuck on a bus. I sat in a hostel hoping for a WiFi or Internet signal before the night bus to Chachapoyas departed. I cried because I couldn’t see my friend on her wedding day, but she’s one of the most thoughtful people I know, so she found little ways to include me during the day. Again with the bittersweet.

Gocta Falls

November 12, 2012 – I wrapped up field-based training in green (and rainy) Cajamarca with some of my fellow health volunteers and headed to my future home in Amazonas, Peru. I met Ian and his fellow water and sanitation volunteers at a bus station for the final leg of the trip. After another overnight bus, we arrived in Chachapoyas, Amazonas. We were greeted by a few of our future fellow Amazonas Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs). After dropping our bags off at the hostel, we began a three hour hike up to Gocta Falls, which is one of the tallest in the world, for our first regional activity. My amateur photography does not do this place justice. After a picnic lunch at the top of the second fall, we headed back into Chachapoyas for an evening meeting.

This beauty is two hours from Luya via combi, plus a three hour hike.

Socio Day in Chachapoyas

November 13, 2012 – We were introduced to our new host families and community counterparts / co-workers (also known as socios) during a day-long workshop filled with ice breakers, presentations, coffee and empanadas. Our Country Director, Sanjay, was even there for the event. Later that afternoon, Ian and I hopped in a cab with our new host mom, Neli, and one of our socios, Karina, to begin the stunning hour drive up the mountain and through the clouds to our new home. I’ll talk more about the drive and our home in another post.

Home sweet home for the next two years.

First Day, First Cuy & A New Niece

November 14, 2012 – We started the day at 8 a.m. and didn’t stop until well after 10 p.m. Ian and I had several meetings with various health center workers, city council members, NGO coordinators, teachers, and community members. Our first full day in Luya was a big happy blur, and we felt very welcomed by the community. We mentioned that we had not tried cuy yet, so our host dad made us cuy and papas for lunch. (It’s a lot of work for little meat.) Oh, remember that earlier blog post about my pregnant sister-in-law? Erin went into labor that morning, and the baby arrived at the end of our first day in Luya! Late that evening we received a text from Ross to tell us our new niece, Catherine Grace, arrived. (Again with the spotty cell reception and no internet.) My heart hurt that we couldn’t be there to love on that little girl immediately, but my cup truly runneth over. Instead of sleeping that night, I thought about my new niece, Luya, and the crazy, beautiful life Ian and I get to live. We left Luya a few days later feeling immensely blessed.

A Peruvian Thanksgiving

November 22, 2012 – On Thanksgiving Day, our training group, Peru 20, held a pot luck for 80 people. We fed each other and 25 members of the Peace Corps Peru training staff. It was bittersweet to be away from home, but we were still happy. To me, food is love. Cooking for others makes my heart sing, so I prepared my mom’s harvest dressing and baked apples for 80. It was a way for me to keep my family with me during the day. Other volunteers made Thanksgiving staples like green bean casserole, sweet potatoes, and gravy. The training staff bought and prepared (!) several turkeys and chickens for everyone. Dinner was served on a ping-pong table.Volunteers and staff alike shared sweet sentiments and heartfelt thanks with one another. It was unlike any Thanksgiving I’ve had before. I missed my family and friends in the US, but I felt so very loved and thankful.

Gobble gobble!

Our friend Lindsey shows off her Thanksgiving goods.

Swearing-In Ceremony

November 23, 2012 – After 10 weeks of intense language, cultural, and technical training, Ian and I joined 54 other volunteers at the Ambassador’s house for our Swearing-In Ceremony. Pardon my French – but we worked really damn hard just to get there. It’s an indescribable feeling to accomplish one of your dreams. And to do it with your best friend by your side? With 54 new, unexpected friendships? And host families who beam with pride? At the Ambassador’s home? And of course with the love and support of so many family and friends back home? So, yeah. It was a day we dreamt about for years, so naturally I happy-cried most of it. Especially when we said this:

I (name) do solemnly swear or affirm that I will support and defend the Constitution of the United States against all enemies, domestic and foreign, that I take this obligation freely and without any mental reservation or purpose of evasion, and that I will well and faithfully discharge my duties in the Peace Corps by working with the people of Peru as partners in friendship and in peace.

Later that afternoon we said teary good-byes to our host family, and then we were bused to a generous (and fabulous) party* at our Country Director’s home. We danced the night away with staff and said a lot of good-byes.

We’re official!

Pinch Me

November 24, 2012 – The next day, we soaked up a little bit more of Lima before beginning our 27 hour commute to Amazonas as official Peace Corps Volunteers. Pinch me so I know I’m not dreaming.

Love,

-a2e

*As silly as it sounds, one of my highlights that evening was our Country Director’s miniature Schnauzer. Of course, Wilson is much more handsome, but I love that I got to give belly scratches to one of Wilson’s cousins….

Lonely Planet recently identified Chachapoyas as one of the top 10 places in the world to visit during 2013, so go ahead and start planning your trip. I’ll let you borrow my sleeping bag, but you have to bring your own towel. Here is a little promotional video about our future home – Amazonas, Peru!

Later this week we will head north to complete some additional training and visit our future host family in Luya. Then we will return to Lima for a few days so that we can be sworn in as Peace Corps Volunteers. We will officially move to Amazonas on Saturday, Nov. 24.

Last Thursday (Nov 1) was Dia de los Muertos. Basically, everyone goes to the cemetery and parties with their deceased family members. It was particularly cool here, because our community has a lot of people from lots of different places around Peru, and it has a big (and old) cemetery – which meant that we could see a lot of different regional traditions being carried out in the same place. Some folks brought baskets of food and had picnics near the tombs – whatever food was the favorite of the deceased. Some brought their instruments and played music from their pueblo. We heard music from la sierra, la selva, y la costa. Many brought bottles of pisco or good ol’ cerveza to share.

We ate sweet breads in the shape of baby dolls – or wawas, according to the Quechua tradition and language. As our host mom guided us around the colorful celebration in the gathering dusk, we met neighbors, friends, and visitors from all over the country. We met a family who traveled all the way back from New Jersey to spend time with their great-grandmother, who had passed on 15 years earlier. It was really cool, hearing them tell stories. The stories, and the food, and the music; it was their way of keeping the memory of that person alive.

Of course, the street food was out in full force. Vendors lugged around cases of frosty beer to sell to keep the party going. Grandmothers sold bunches of bright flowers, and little kids carried ladders around so that families could place their flowers on their relative’s hard-to-reach tombs for just a sol each. Amanda brought her camera along, but didn’t take any pictures. When asked why by our host mom, she explained that she felt it would be disrespectful to take pictures during such a deeply personal event. In Spanish. I was impressed.

Later, we met up with some neighbors who were celebrating their son’s birthday. They invited us into their home, and we joined in on the music and dancing. We learned several new moves, passed the bottle a few times, and had some great food. We found out that the family is from Iquitos, the capital of the deep-jungle region of Loreto, just to the east of Amazonas. They insisted that, if we ever visit Iquitos, we stay with them in their home. We hope to be able to take them up on that.

We had to tear ourselves away to get home to study for a test the next day. It was such a cool experience, like nothing I’d seen before. Reminded me of how important it is to not only honor the memory of our loved ones who have passed, but to cherish the generations of our families still living.

-en2e

The next day we started classes at the training center. We were placed into language groups according to our ability, and I was placed into the very lowest level. Our language and culture facilitator, Claudia, only spoke to us in Spanish. Okay, I should have seen that one coming. The second day of class, we had to go out into the community and conduct one-on-one interviews with people on the street. It was painful. Asking the questions was one thing, but asking the elderly lady to repeat herself three times was even harder. The next day I began one-on-one tutoring. My tutor, Pablo, asked me a series of questions and I tried to fumble through responses. Then Pablo asked me if I had any pets. Waterfalls. I couldn’t stop crying. Pablo passed me some Kleenex and said, “Esta bien, Amanda. Poco a poco.”

There was never a doubt in my mind that Ian and I were exactly where we needed to be. However, I knew my language level was miles behind where it should to be. We were also miles from my family, friends, and home. I was experiencing the initial waves of culture shock. I was running on adrenaline though, and ultimately, I needed sleep. I was completely exhausted. It’s amazing what a few extra hours of sleep can do.

In Spanish class the next morning, we had to go out into the community and explain what Cuerpo de Paz was to people on the street. I had a poster with pictures of the world, JFK, and handshakes to help me facilitate the conversation. Again, I felt silly, but I reminded myself this is just part of the process. It was getting easier. During the course of the next few weeks, Mama Angelica and Papa Lucho routinely took me to the market or grocery store so I could practice my Spanish. It became game for us. They point to an object and say its name in Spanish. I repeat it a few times, and then respond with the name in English. They repeat it in English and laugh. We covered their home with little note cards labeling different household items. Every night they quiz me on different items around the house. Ian makes a point to not translate unless I specifically ask for his help, because I need to be able to operate and work in the community independently. When we’re in public or around our host family, we only speak in Spanish. It isn’t easy for either of us, but it is important. I just keep my dictionary by my side at all times.

Weeks of Spanish tutoring, class, homework, and presentations flew by, and all of a sudden, it was time for another Spanish interview to check my progress. I felt like I made several mistakes during the interview, and there were several questions I didn’t know. But much to my surprise, I was told my language competency increased by several levels. I don’t think I realized it though until recently. During the past week or so, I’ve discussed the American political system, the tradition of apple cider, and Superstorm Sandy in Spanish. It wasn’t perfect, but it was better. I’m still tired somedays, but not everyday. Poco a poco.

-a2e